How to Plant, Grow and Care for Tomatoes

Year after year, tomatoes make it to the top of everyone's "must-grow" list. And there's a good reason for that: A tomato picked fresh from the garden tastes remarkably better than any tomato you can buy at the store. This guide provides expert advice on everything from selecting plants to planting, growing, troubleshooting, and harvesting your tomatoes.

Selecting Tomato Plants

Who knew picking out a tomato plant could be so involved? Ask any seasoned gardener, and they'll confirm — it's a task, albeit an enjoyable one. Whether you're growing tomatoes from seeds or purchasing starter plants, the sheer variety can be overwhelming — there are over 6,000 types! A little information on the different kinds of tomato plants and their available varieties might help streamline the process.

When shopping for tomato seeds or plants, consider the following factors:

• Growth habit
• Seed type
• Fruit size, color, and flavor
• Disease resistance
• Regional climate suitability

A major consideration when choosing which types of tomatoes to grow is their growth habit: determinate or indeterminate. Look for these terms on seed packets, catalog descriptions, and plant tags when shopping for tomato plants.

• Determinate varieties grow into bush-like plants with clusters of flowers at the ends of stems; these clusters halt further plant growth, so all the fruit ripens around the same time. After a few harvests, the plant completes its cycle and can be removed. Despite being bushier than indeterminate plants, determinate plants might still need staking. Look for plant height information on seed packets or plant tags.
• Indeterminate varieties, which are grown on trellises or stakes, produce fruit clusters along a vine that continues to grow all season, bearing fruit until the first frost kills the plant. These varieties can grow very tall, and some gardeners prune them to keep the size manageable.

While these are the two main growth habits, modern breeding has introduced new plant forms and structures. Some newer varieties are smaller, better suited for gardeners with limited space or those who grow plants in containers. You might encounter terms like:

• Compact: This usually refers to a small determinate plant, such as one that grows to about 12-18 inches tall and wide, with short, densely-leaved branches. Many compact varieties produce cherry-sized fruit, though not all do. They grow well in pots and often don't need staking. These are also known as patio tomatoes.
• Tumbling: Like compact varieties, tumblers are ideal for containers but additionally have a trailing habit, making them great for spilling over the sides of pots and window boxes.

Seed Types

As with most vegetables, tomato seeds can be hybrids or heirlooms.

• Hybrids are developed by cross-pollinating two parent varieties to create a new one with specific desired traits, such as disease resistance or plant height. These characteristics are maintained only through cross-pollination; you can't save the seeds from a hybrid and expect the same traits in the next generation.
• Heirlooms have been passed down for at least 50 years, maintaining relatively consistent characteristics over time. They often have unique origins, colors, and flavors, along with regional suitability, but sometimes offer limited disease and pest resistance.
• Heirlooms are also open-pollinated (OP), meaning pollination happens naturally in the field. Some seeds labeled as OP are not heirlooms because they lack the historical significance of heirlooms.

These factors impact the end result — the tomato. Are you looking for a large slicer? Cherry tomatoes you can eat whole? Tomatoes for making sauce? Or perhaps a tomato with an unusual color? The wide world of tomatoes has something for everyone, once you know what to look for.

There are three primary categories of tomatoes based on fruit size:

• Beefsteak — large, round, juicy fruit, great for slicing
• Plum or Paste — oblong, meaty fruit with rich flavors, excellent for sauce-making
• Cherry — small, bite-sized fruit, typically very productive

Tomatoes come in various colors, including classic red, orange, yellow, deep burgundy, purple, black, bright green, and even white. Many of these colors are available in both determinate and indeterminate plants, as well as beefsteak, plum, or cherry fruit types. If color is your primary focus, start there, and then narrow down your options by other factors.

The 'Indigo Rose' tomato features medium-sized, unique purple fruits with rosy red flesh and a tangy taste. These semi-determinate plants begin producing fruit in 75 to 80 days. Make sure to allow the fruits to fully ripen on the vine; wait for the skin to turn from a glossy purple to a matte brown-purple, and for the bottom of the fruits to shift from green to red.

While flavor might seem like the first thing to consider, it’s only recently that people have started discussing the finer points of tomato taste. Some tomatoes are bright and tart, others are rich and offer that elusive fifth flavor: umami. (Cherokee Purple, anyone?) As you grow your own and try different varieties, you'll discover a vast range of flavors that go far beyond what grocery store tomatoes offer, which are often bred more for uniformity and transportability than for taste.

Even though tomatoes are a favorite among new gardeners, they can be quite challenging to grow due to their susceptibility to diseases and pests. Potential diseases include:

• Anthracnose
• Early blight
• Late blight
• Fusarium wilt
• Septoria leaf spot
• Southern bacterial wilt
• Verticillium wilt

Do a little research to learn if any of these diseases are common in your area, and if so, look for varieties — likely hybrids — that are resistant. This information is usually found in variety descriptions.

Tomatoes can grow almost anywhere, but not all varieties thrive everywhere.

For gardeners in cooler, shorter-season zones (zones 5 and above), it's important to choose varieties that grow and produce quickly and tolerate cooler temperatures. These might be called early (like Early Girl), short-season, or cool-climate varieties, and you should pay attention to "days to maturity" information. Tomatoes mature in 60 to 100 days; if your growing season is short, pick varieties at the lower end of that spectrum.

If you live in a particularly wet climate, varieties with disease resistance will likely be your best option as most tomato diseases thrive in wet conditions. For hot, dry climates, look for heat-tolerant varieties, which often have names hinting at this trait, such as Heat Master and Solar Fire.

Many heirloom varieties are well-loved within certain regions and known to thrive there. If you’re interested in heirlooms, buy seeds from smaller, regional companies that specialize in varieties for your area.

Popular Varieties

With over 6,000 tomato varieties, highlighting just a few is difficult, but here are some widely recognized favorites to get you started on your tomato journey:

• Better Boy: A widely adapted hybrid indeterminate with excellent disease resistance and high yields of consistently round, red fruit.
• Cherokee Purple: An indeterminate heirloom from the Cherokee tribe in Tennessee, known for its deep red-purple color and rich flavor.
• Early Girl: A popular indeterminate hybrid that matures early in the season, hence the name "Early Girl."
• Pink Brandywine: An indeterminate heirloom with pink fruit, originating from Pennsylvania Amish communities. Its "potato leaf" foliage resembles that of potatoes, a relative of tomatoes.
• Roma: A determinate plant grown for its meaty fruit, perfect for making tomato paste and sauce.
• Sweet 100: An indeterminate hybrid producing hundreds of sweet red cherry tomatoes on one plant.
• Sungold: An indeterminate hybrid producing golden yellow cherry tomatoes with a tangy flavor.

How to Grow Perfect Tomatoes

• Start tomatoes from seeds or transplants. Starting seeds outdoors takes longer and may not allow enough time for the fruit to mature in cooler climates, but you can start seeds indoors and transplant them outdoors to give them more time to grow.
• Start tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before your area's last frost date in spring. This gives them time to grow into healthy transplants before being moved outdoors.
• Plant tomatoes in a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight per day, preferably more, and has nutrient-rich garden soil. Prepare the soil by tilling or spading in composted organic matter and a balanced fertilizer, such as 10-10-10.
• Whether you start from seeds or purchase transplants, plant tomato transplants in spring after all danger of frost has passed. If using transplants, plant them at least as deep as the cell they came in, though some gardeners recommend planting tomatoes deeply, burying the lower stems, which will develop into strong roots.
• Spacing depends on the variety. Space determinate plants two feet apart while indeterminate plants require more room, about three feet apart.
• Stake your tomato plants at planting time for best results. Staking provides support and keeps the foliage and fruit off the ground. Indeterminate types must be staked, but even determinate types benefit from it.
• Apply mulch, such as straw or cedar, around the base of your plants to maintain soil moisture and prevent soil from splashing onto leaves, which can lead to disease issues.
• Initially, a tomato transplant needs to be watered every couple of days, depending on your climate, humidity, and soil type. Once established, you can water less frequently.

Companion Plants

Tomatoes grow well in conjunction with many other vegetables and herbs. According to the book Plant Partners by expert Jessica Walliser, some plant pairings are scientifically proven to benefit tomatoes:

• Plant basil near tomatoes to mask them from thrips, an insect that spreads plant diseases. Bonus: basil and tomatoes are an excellent culinary match!
• Grow carrot-family herbs such as dill, cilantro, and fennel to control caterpillar pests, including tomato hornworm. The flowers of these herbs attract parasitic wasps that prey on hornworms and other caterpillar pests.
• Plant low-growing herbs like thyme and leaf lettuce under tomato plants as "living mulch" to shade the soil and prevent weeds while providing a secondary crop in the same space.

Growing and Caring for Tomatoes

Caring for tomato plants is a marathon, not a sprint; they can take three months or more to produce fruit, so you need to monitor your plants for the long term. If you do, they’ll reward you with a bountiful late-summer harvest.

Provide your tomatoes with a consistent supply of moisture — 1 to 2 inches of water per week when they’re fruiting. Tomatoes in containers may need to be watered every day or two. Inconsistent watering can lead to issues like blossom end rot. Generally, watering less frequently but deeply is best.

Tomatoes require a lot of nutrients, or they are "heavy feeders." Feed them lightly with a low-nitrogen fertilizer when the plant starts to flower. You can also apply a little compost around the plants as they mature.

Regularly pinch off new growth in the angle of the main stem and side branches, known as "suckers," to keep the plant open and channel energy to the fruiting stems.

Growing Tomatoes in Pots

You can successfully grow tomatoes in containers as long as the container is large enough for the variety you are growing.

• Compact determinate varieties can thrive in smaller pots, but most tomato plants need containers at least 18-24 inches in diameter.
• Use high-quality potting soil to fill your pots, leaving space for mulch because container tomatoes need mulch, too.
• Water container tomatoes more frequently than those planted in the ground since containers dry out more quickly. Plastic or glazed clay pots are better for retaining moisture than plain clay pots.

Common Problems and Solutions

Check your plants regularly and try to identify problems early. Here are some common tomato issues along with remedies:

• Blossom end rot: This condition spreads quickly, causing a black spot or indentation at the fruit’s base. Usually the result of calcium deficiency or improper watering, it can't be treated with fungicides. Calcium amendments can help, but prevention is key, including maintaining a soil pH of around 6.5 and using appropriate soil amendments.
• Spotty leaves: These could indicate various diseases. Pay attention to the spot color, size, and shape to help identify the specific disease, which may be due to pests, climate conditions like wet weather, or a combination of both.
• Blossom drop: Flowers fall off before fruiting, often during consistently hot weather (above 90 degrees during the day). Maintain healthy plants and wait for cooler temperatures.
• Shiny or deformed leaves: This may be a sign of insects like aphids, whiteflies, or spider mites. Look for aphids on leaf undersides, mite webs, or flies moving when plants are jostled. Insecticidal soap is an effective organic remedy.
• Lack of flowers or fruit: Too much nitrogen could be causing the plant to put all its energy into leaf growth.
• Cracked fruit: Caused by moisture fluctuations, often following heavy rain. Harvest ripe fruit promptly and maintain even watering.

Harvesting and Storing Tips

Now for the best part — harvesting and enjoying your tomatoes! When it's time to pick your tomatoes, keep these tips in mind:

• Wait until the tomatoes are mostly their final color, whether red, orange, or purple, before picking.

Gently lift the fruit to detach it from the plant rather than pulling downward, which might damage the branches.

• If tomatoes are being eaten by animals or if frost is approaching, you can harvest partially ripe tomatoes and let them ripen indoors in a paper bag.
• Avoid refrigerating tomatoes, as it degrades their flavor and texture.
• Freezing tomatoes is an excellent preservation method. Homemade canned tomato sauce is another option.

Common Tomato Questions

The time it takes for a tomato plant to grow and produce fruit depends on the variety. "Short-season" tomatoes, like "Early Girl," mature more quickly and are suitable for regions with shorter summers. Most varieties mature within 60-85 days.

Yes, tomatoes and peppers can be planted together, but be aware that both are part of the Solanaceae family and are susceptible to similar pests and diseases. If you encounter pest or disease issues with one, separating them might help. Plant flowers like marigolds among your tomatoes and peppers to deter pests.

You should pick tomatoes when they’ve reached their mature color, which varies by variety. If birds, squirrels, or splitting and cracking are a problem, you can harvest them just as they start to color and let them finish ripening in a paper bag indoors. Ensure the fruit has some color before picking; totally green tomatoes won’t ripen indoors.

Leaf curl can result from numerous factors, including aphids. Check for aphids on the underside of leaves, and if found, spray them off with water and apply insecticidal soap or neem oil. Leaf curl might also be caused by heat, drought, or viruses. Keep plants well-watered and nourished with compost or organic fertilizer to help them withstand these challenges.