How to Grow and Care for Spanish Lavender

Spanish lavender (Lavendula stoechas) is a species of lavender that grows as a low shrub with a distinct flower shape. It is known for its upright petals that appear at the top of the flower heads, giving the blooms a rabbit-like appearance. Blooming with purple, pink, or white flowers in the summer season, Spanish lavender tolerates heat better than other lavenders and thrives in hot, dry climates. It needs full sun as well as acidic well-draining soil, and it cannot tolerate cold temperatures, especially those that dip to 10 or 15 degrees Fahrenheit.This plant is a deer-resistant perennial, but is toxic to animals, so keep that in mind if your pets frequently spend time in your garden.

Spanish Lavender Care

Spanish lavender is fairly easy to care for, with some light pruning required after planting. Here are the main care requirements for growing Spanish lavender:

• Plant when soil has thawed in the spring or in the early fall.
• Grow in full sun and poor, sandy, well-draining soil.
• Water infrequently and do not let the plant sit in soggy soil; Spanish lavender hates wet feet.
• Abstain from fertilizing Spanish lavender.
• Prune carefully after its first flush of flowering.
  

Light

Like other lavender varieties, Spanish lavender requires full sun to thrive and produce its fragrant blooms.Plant these purple blooms in a spot in your yard that gets from 6–8 hours of direct sunlight per day.

Soil

Spanish lavender needs well-draining soil to grow healthy and lush. Soil that contains a lot of sand and gravel is a great option for this plant, as it promotes drainage and will typically prevent any standing water. If your soil is composed of clay, be sure to amend it with sand, gravel, peat moss, or coconut coir before planting this herb to prevent wet feet.

Water

Similar to other lavender varieties, Spanish lavender does not require much water and can withstand periods of drought. However, the best growing conditions involve slightly moist soil, so water these plants before the soil dries out completely. Water at soil level to avoid getting the leaves wet and prevent fungal disease.

Temperature and Humidity

Spanish lavender is native to North Africa and the Mediterranean and does well in hot, dry climates. It thrives in zones 8A to 9B and is the best choice of the popular lavender varieties for warm climates. However, it is not as cold-hardy as other varieties of lavender and must stay in a zone where winter temperatures do not drop below 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit.Be sure to protect your Spanish lavender if temperatures drop in your area.

Fertilizer

Spanish lavender does not require fertilizer and typically does best without it.Fertilizing can sometimes even prevent the plant from flowering. This is because it is native to areas with sandy, poor-quality soil and prefers soil that is low in nutrients.

Types of Spanish Lavender

Spanish lavender comes in many different colors and cultivars. Here are some of the most popular:

• ‘Strawberry Ruffles’: This Spanish lavender is known for its blush-colored, upright ruffled petals and berry-hued blooms.
• ‘Silver Anouk’: With silver-gray foliage that looks almost frosted, this variety produces two-toned purple flowers.
• ‘Kew Red’: Pale pink bracts (upright petals) crown this cultivar's wine-red blooms.
• 'Alba': This cultivar can be identified by its especially fragrant, pure-white blooms that perch atop silvery stems.
• 'Fathead': Known for its long-lasting, dark-purple flowers that gradually fade to pink, this type has silvery green and highly aromatic foliage.
• 'Regal Splendour': This type has long flower heads in violet blue, topped by bracts forming pink "ears" and is known for its prominent dark hue.

Pruning

Prune Spanish lavender twice per year to encourage it to branch, creating a denser, thicker plant. To properly prune lavender, trim away around one-third of the plant’s growth after its first flush of flowers in the spring. You can also deadhead as needed here to promote better flowering during the second flush.

Then, prune about one-third of the plant’s growth again after the second flush of blooms in the summer fades to prepare the plant for fall.Although individual plants will grow substantially in width as they mature, Spanish lavender does not spread through root extension, so you don't need to worry about aggressive growth. Do not remove more than half of your plant's size during any given pruning session.

Propagating Spanish Lavender

You can easily propagate Spanish lavender through cuttings in the spring or early fall. It is a quicker and more reliable method than growing lavender from seed. Propagating via soil is the best process to use, as propagating Spanish lavender cuttings in water typically yields weaker roots. Gather a pair of disinfected, sharp garden snips, a small pot, well-draining soil, a plastic bag, and a rubber band. Then, follow these steps:

1. Fill a small pot with well-draining soil.
2. Find a cutting without flowers, then snip where the new growth meets the old.
3. Remove all of the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
4. Gently plant the now-stripped lower end of the cutting into the soil. Press the cutting into the soil until there is just an inch or so between the soil and the bottom set of leaves.
5. Place a clear plastic bag loosely over the cutting to keep in moisture. Secure it around the pot with a rubber band.
6. Lightly moisten the soil, continuing to monitor its moisture levels and keeping it slightly damp until the plant is established.
7. Check for roots in 2–4 weeks by gently tugging on the cutting. When there is resistance, roots have formed.
8. Remove the plastic bag once roots are established. Your Spanish lavender is now ready to plant in your garden.

How to Grow Spanish Lavender From Seed

Spanish lavender can also be grown from seed starting 12 weeks or so from winter's last frost. Spanish lavender seeds have the best outcome when started indoors and if the seeds are cold stratified before planting to mimic the cold and moist winter conditions in a more controlled environment. Before you begin, ensure you have well-draining soil, a pot or seed tray, paper towels ,and a plastic bag on hand. Follow these steps to begin the growing process:

1. Place your lavender seeds on a damp paper towel, then slide the paper towel into a resealable bag. Keep the bag in your fridge for 3 weeks.
2. Prepare a pot or seed tray with well-draining soil, then sow the seeds into the pots and cover them very lightly (about 1/8 inch away from the surface) with soil.Water the seeds enough to just moisten the soil.
3. Store the seeds in a sunny spot (preferably between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit), as lavender seeds need light to germinate.
4. Check the seeds regularly, taking care to keep the soil moist.Germination should occur in about 2-4 weeks.
5. Transfer seedlings to their own pots or plant in the garden in the spring when they are between 2–3 inches tall.

Potting and Repotting Spanish Lavender

Spanish lavender grows very well in containers. Choose a pot with multiple drainage holes that let water flow freely to plant your Spanish lavender. Potted lavender will need to be watered more often than lavender planted in the garden since it won't have access to underground water sources, though the cadence should still be relatively infrequent. Water deeply when the soil feels dry.

Repot your Spanish lavender yearly. To do this, gently tip the pot onto its side and tap around the outside of the pot to loosen the root system. Gently slide the lavender out and place it in its new pot. Fill the pot with fresh, sandy, well-draining soil and place it in a sunny location.

Overwintering

Spanish lavender is much more cold-sensitive than other, hardier varieties. That said, it should be overwintered indoors if you live in a colder region (below Zone 8). If you reside in Zone 8 or above, you can simply insulate your Spanish lavender outdoors during wintertime with an additional layer of mulch to protect the root system. Only water if the winter is exceptionally dry and keep your plants in a spot that gets lots of light.

Common Pests and Plant Diseases

Spanish lavender does not struggle with many pests or diseases. Whiteflies and aphids may be attracted to the plant. A blast of water or use of insecticidal soap, such as neem oil, can reduce these infestations. However, the plant is more prone to spittlebugs. This pest is not fatal to lavender though it leaves frothy waste on plants. Spray the bugs off the plants using a garden hose. No pesticide is necessary for this minimally invasive garden pest.

Lavender may be prone to fungal diseases, such as the air-borne shab (Phomopsis lavandulae), which may be rare but something to watch for. Lavender shoots will begin to wilt and die and there's no cure but to dig up and dispose of the affected plants. Lavender can also develop soil-borne Phytophthora, which causes root and stem rot. Another fungal disease, septoria leaf spot, can be handled with fungicides.

How to Get Spanish Lavender to Bloom

Bloom Months

Spanish lavender may appear in two large flushes of blooms each year. Spanish lavender begins to bloom in the spring and continues throughout the summer.

What Do Spanish Lavender Flowers Look and Smell Like?

Spanish lavender is often preferred to other types of lavender for its unique blooms, often described as purple pineapples or tufted rabbit ears. Depending on the cultivar, Spanish lavender can be found with pink, purple, or white flowers. These plants are adorned with small, gray-green leaves and grow in a compact rounded shape. The flowers have a beautiful lavender aroma.

How to Encourage More Blooms

To encourage blooming, make sure your Spanish lavender is getting six to eight hours of full sunshine a day. It is unnecessary to fertilize Spanish lavender for more blooms or fragrance. Deadheading is also essential to encouraging more blooms.

Deadheading Spanish Lavender Flowers

Deadheading spent blooms will encourage Spanish lavender to continue blooming. Deadhead throughout the growing season to keep your lavender looking full and healthy.

Common Problems With Spanish Lavender

Spanish lavender is rather hardy and does not often struggle with many pests or other problems. However, foliage issues can be caused by subpar soil or moisture conditions. Here's what to look for.

Yellow, Brown, or Droopy Leaves

Yellow, floppy leaves are usually a sign of root rot. Because Spanish lavender needs well-draining soil and minimal moisture, it is susceptible to developing root rot in overly wet conditions. If you suspect this is the case, cut back on watering. In the meantime, remove any organic material, such as fallen leaves, around the plant. Then, gently dig up the plant to inspect the roots. Remove any rotting roots with a sterilized pair of snips, then replant the lavender in an area with well-draining soil and full sunshine. Don't place it too close to other plants, as it will impede its air circulation.

Few Flowers

A minimal number of flowers is a sign of too much nitrogen and is often caused by over-fertilizing (or fertilizing at all). If this is the case, stop fertilizing immediately. Remove the lavender from the rich soil. Either amend the soil with sand and gravel (if outdoors) or move the lavender to a pot with new appropriate soil. Prune around one-third of the leggy growth in the spring or fall to help the lavender regain its compact shape.

From: thespruce