How to Grow and Care for Shallots

Shallots are a member of the Allium genus, which includes onions, garlic, chives, and several ornamental plants. Shallots multiply in the ground like garlic, but the individual bulbs have concentric layers like onions. Moreover, shallots are generally smaller than garlic bulbs and have a mild onion flavor. They are relatively easy to grow. Like garlic cloves, they should be planted in the fall or early spring, and with their fast growth rate, they are usually ready to harvest in 100 to 120 days on average. Be warned that all parts of Allium cepa species and varieties are toxic to pets.

How to Plant Shallots

Shallots are normally planted from commercially-grown "sets"—immature bulbs that are in their second year after being planted in greenhouses from seeds. If you have a store-bought shallot that has begun to sprout, it will usually be fine to use for planting. Separate a store-bought shallot into individual cloves and let them dry out slightly. Then, plant them as directed below.

When to Plant

Planting time depends on whether you'll be growing from seeds or shallot sets—immature bulbs. Plant shallot sets in late fall, and you’ll be able to harvest by early summer. However, fall plantings don’t always work out in the colder parts of this plant’s growing zones.You also can plant sets in the early spring to harvest in the fall. The best time to plant the shallot sets will be roughly two to four weeks before your area's projected last frost date.

If growing from seeds, sow shallots seeds outdoors four weeks before your last expected frost in spring, or start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the average last frost date.

Selecting a Planting Site

Choose a sunny spot in your garden for your shallots. It's also ideal to give shallots some space from other plants, as shallots don't like to compete for soil moisture or nutrients. Plus, the planting site should have sharp soil drainage that is not prone to flooding. Shallots also can be grown in containers.

Spacing, Depth, and Support

Shallots are most commonly grown from cloves. Place each clove in the soil with the thick end pointing down and the top just above the soil line. Plant them around 6 to 8 inches apart in rows, and space each row around 12 to 18 inches apart. These plants do not need a support structure to grow on.

Shallot Care

Light

For best results, grow your shallots in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Shallots can also tolerate a bit of shade, but they might not be as robust.

Soil

Plant shallots in well-draining soil enriched with organic matter. They like an acidic to neutral soil pH of about 5.5 to 7.0.

Water

Shallots need continuous water throughout the growing season, especially during dry spells. Make sure the soil remains lightly moist, but don't let the bulbs sit in soggy soil, which can cause them to rot. They need about an inch of water per week.

Temperature and Humidity

Shallots require a cool dormant period of at least one month with temperatures between 32 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit before they start growing. Shallot plants prefer soil temperatures from 35 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Also, as long as they are regularly watered and kept in well-draining soil, shallots are not humidity-sensitive.

Fertilizer

Shallots generally don't require fertilizer. However, amending the soil with compost in the spring can help to add nutrients and improve drainage.

Types of Shallots

Shallots sold for garden planting are generally divided into traditional heirloom varieties and hybrids bred to have a larger size or better storage longevity. Some types of shallots include:

• 'French Gray': An heirloom considered by most to be the only true shallot and the one favored for gourmet cooking
• 'French Red': An heirloom that has a spicy flavor and is easy to peel
• 'Frog's Leg': An heirloom that is very mild; the bulbs are elongated like a frog's leg
• 'Ambition': A hybrid large French shallot that stores very well
• 'Conservor': A hybrid similar to 'Ambition' but larger and less rounded

Shallots vs. Scallions

As they’re both part of the Allium genus, shallots and scallions are often mistaken for one another. However, they are used very differently. Scallions, also known as green onions, are harvested when the bulbs are immature and used for their long, thin, green leaves. Shallots are used for their small but fully mature bulbs, which have a much stronger flavor than scallions.

Harvesting Shallots

Shallots are usually ready for harvesting approximately 100 to 120 days after planting. As with onions, shallots signal they are ready to be dug up once their leafy tops turn brown and wither. Dig up the whole plant, and shake off excess soil. Then, place it in a dry, shady spot for a couple of weeks to cure. After that, remove the roots and tops.

You can store shallots in a cool, dry room at around 35 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit for up to eight months. Place them in a mesh bag, and ensure that they have good air circulation. Shallots have a mild onion/garlic flavor and can be used in any recipe calling for onions, especially if you want a milder taste. They are great raw or cooked.

How to Grow Shallots in Pots

Growing shallots in a container is helpful because you can move the container for the plant to receive adequate sunlight. You also can carefully control the plant's water intake. A pot that's 6 inches in diameter is ideal for one clove. Be sure to space multiple cloves 6 inches apart just like you would when planting in the ground. The container must have ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is best to allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls.

Water the plant when the soil is dry around 1 inch down. Pour water slowly over the soil surface until it flows out of the drainage holes, and then stop. Shallots usually need about 1 inch of water each week—maybe more in sweltering conditions. Give container shallots fertilizer in the early spring. Apply a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer product for the best results.

Pruning

Cut off flower stalks, so the energy goes directly to the bulbs. Do not cut the leaves, as they provide energy to the bulb.

Propagating Shallots

Most shallots are harvested in their first growing season before they flower and set seed, so the only way to propagate them is from the bulbs. Because each bulb planted usually results in several new bulbs, there is rarely any need to buy more shallots once you have established a patch. Here's how to propagate with the bulbs:

1. When harvesting shallots, save some of the healthiest-looking bulbs to replant the next fall or spring.
2. Carefully divide the shallot bulbs, ensuring that the papery coating remains on each section. Store in a cool and dry area.
3. When it comes time to plant, pick a sunny spot, and dig a hole roughly the size of an individual bulb. Mix some compost into the soil.
4. Plant the bulb with the pointed end just above the soil line.
5. Water to keep the soil lightly moist. Green shoots should pop up within a week.

How to Grow Shallots From Seed

You can also grow shallots from seed. Plant the seeds roughly eight to ten weeks before your area’s last projected frost date in the spring. Take these easy steps:

1. Use a shallow tray with a seed-starting mix, and sow seeds only around 1/4 inch deep.
2. Place the tray in a bright location, and you should see germination in about a week.
3. Do not let the soil dry out.
4. Harden off seedlings before planting. After the danger of frost has passed, the seedlings can be planted 4 to 6 inches apart in the garden.

Overwintering

Shallot bulbs can overwinter in the ground, as they go dormant for the winter season. No special maintenance is necessary for them to overwinter, as long as their planting site has good drainage. Once temperatures begin to warm, the plant awakens, spurring the growing process.

Common Pests and Plant Diseases

Pests that go after shallots include onion fly larvae and rodents. The larval worms hatch from fly eggs that burrow into the bulbs. However, planting carrots nearby can deter them. Moreover, rodents including gophers, rabbits, and squirrels often dig up shallots to feed on the bulbs. Exclusion techniques, such as using fencing, are the best way to keep rodents out of the garden.

Shallots are subject to many of the same fungal problems as onions. Diseases to watch for include white rot and neck rot. White rot is a fungal disease that attacks the roots and base of the bulb. It can persist in the soil for as long as 15 years, so shallots should not be grown again in the same location for quite some time. Discard affected plants. Neck rot is a soil-borne fungal disease that attacks the neck and leaves of the plant. Discard the plants, and don't plant again in the same area for three years.

Watch out for other fungal issues, such as purple blotch and pink root, which can be difficult to tell apart from root rot. Solarization of the soil or fungicides may help both problems.

From: thespruce